An interview with leather craftsman Charlie Borrow
Charlie Borrow, one of East London’s most respected local craftsmen, is known for hand-making the most sumptuous, durable, leather luggage pieces.
You would be forgiven for falling for any number of his leather accessories and luggage, which range from everyday cardholders and wallets to the Whole Cut bag, a do-all double-handle classic tote which comes in three different sizes. Every piece he makes, whether it be in canvas or signature Devon-sourced leather, is made to order.
Image: Charlie Borrow by Alex Natt
However, aside from his ever-popular luggage, Borrow has recently witnessed a distinct increase in leather upholstery and furniture commissions, and, ever since launching his brand new store, just off Columbia Road, his premises has become a haven for interesting and diverse furniture and interiors commissions.
Image: Charlie Borrow by Alex Natt
‘I actually studied fashion design, which then led me into a job working in the suit department at Paul Smith. I picked up a secondhand sewing machine and took on additional work, specifically mending and altering tailoring for private clients. My interest in leather developed when I was working from my bedroom. After a couple of years I had developed the luggage range and moved to Cleve Workshops, which is part of the Boundary Estate here in Shoreditch.
Image: Charlie Borrow by Alex Natt
‘I was introduced to a Japanese sales agent by one of the other tenants. It was a real moment in my career because my leatherwork and bags quickly got noticed, and it wasn’t long before I had developed the range and secured a wholesale agreement overseas. I now work across both the retail and the wholesale sides of the business - it’s always busy,’ explains Borrow.
“My luggage is very much my trademark, but I’m also working on furniture too.” - Charlie Borrow.
‘For a couple of years I focused solely on the luggage and the accessories, and they are still very much the staple of my business here in the UK and in Japan. My luggage is very much my trademark, but I’m also working on furniture too. Within the last two years, I have seen a tangible increase in furniture and interior requests. Furniture restorers sometimes struggle with particular leather pieces, which is where my skillset comes in. I have an ever-increasing strand of both commercial interior and private clients, all looking for canvas and leather upholstery and furniture restoration.’
Image: Charlie Borrow by Alex Natt
“Within the last two years, I have seen a tangible increase in furniture and interior requests. Furniture restorers sometimes struggle with particular leather pieces, which is where my skill set comes in.” - Charlie Borrow.
Borrow highlights that with quality and craftsmanship comes an inherent interest, commenting, ‘Lots of the furniture that comes in will be mid-century safari style or sling furniture. The early stuff was beautifully handmade and hand-stitched. I always try to advise clients of the best way to get the most out of a piece of furniture, using higher quality leather than what was originally used, or constructing by hand rather than using machines. There's a process by which I research the history of each piece that I get asked to undertake work on’, says Borrow. ‘The very nature of a piece being handmade in the first place means that it’s unique. I quite often unpick a piece only to discover it’s not entirely original. You can see tell-tale signs of where a craftsman has repaired it previously. They will have done it just ever so slightly differently, or have left their maker's mark somewhere for me to see it.’
Image: Charlie Borrow by Alex Natt
‘My first interiors-focused commission was five years ago. David Carter who is the founder of Smokestak, the acclaimed Shoreditch eatery, asked me to make some canvas aprons for the chefs. It was such a success that I was invited back, this time to source and make a bespoke military canvas awning for the front of the restaurant, and additionally, canvas-covered door panelling for the interior,’ says Borrow. ‘From that point on I have seen a steady increase in both commercial interiors projects and private clients looking for creation, restoration, and repair of furniture.’
‘One of my recent projects includes a set of bespoke leather-slung safari chairs, commissioned by Peter Mikic. The frames were antique and I was hand stitching new leather slings to them. Each chair took around a day or so to make. It is not a quick process. I used the saddle stitch technique, which involves a long piece of linen thread, two needles, and an awl, amongst other tools and equipment. It’s a great process, but you do need patience and skill,’ explains Borrow. ‘Some people prefer a finer stitch, which was supposedly a sign of quality back in the day, but I use a 6mm gap and a heavier piece of thread or cord because I think it actually lasts longer, and that, to me, is a sign of true quality’,
Image: Charlie Borrow by Alex Natt
When asked about upcoming projects, Borrow says, ‘I am helping Smokestak with more of their seating and have a really interesting mix of private client chair restorations flurrying through the door within the next couple of months. Individual bits of furniture, which all bring their own interest and challenges.’
To contact Charlie Borrow, visit the website at charlieborrow.com, or Instagram @charlieborrowworkshop.
Writer: Rory Robertson
Images: Alex Natt